It is easy to identify the size of
your 105-engine. There are two ways to do it: Check the
identification mark on the front of the head, facing the
radiator. Measure the distance between the head and the top of
the waterpump. I have spent lots of time doing this chart, so
please ask me first before you copy and use it.
1st. 1300 engine. Distance between
head and waterpump = 0
2nd. 1600 engine. Distance between head and waterpump approx.
3rd. 1750 engine, first series. Distance between head and
waterpump approx. 40 mm
4th. 1750 engine, second series, used on 116 and Alfetta cars.
Distance between head and waterpump approx. 40 mm
5th. 2000 engine. Distance between head and waterpump approx.
Engine number is stamped on the left
side of crankcase, close to the fly-wheel cover.
The entire engine and type table is
Headache? Removing the head?
This is how I do it. Buy yourself a
workshop manual to learn more about the Alfa engine. Be
patient and wait until the engine is cool.
I prefer to wash the engine the night before. It is more
enjoyable to work on a clean engine. Wash the entire engine
and the bay using your favorite
cleaner. I use kerosene and hot water. Don't forget to clean
the sump and the lower parts of the engine. This is important.
Loosen the battery and
remove it to get better access and visibility of the engine.
The photos will guide you through the steps.
Remove the air-cleaner and the filter.
Blue dots. Loosen the support for the carburetors located on
the right side on the engine. Also disconnect the carburetors
from the accelerator connection. Blue dot. Tap of the coolant.
No need to recycle the anti freeze. Your Alfa deserves better
than that. On the back on the exhaust side of the block is the
place to look to tap of the water. It's a brass plug on 1750
engines. White dot. Loosen the fuel hoses and the wiring on
the head. On my Alfa, I have the sensor on the intake manifold
and the mechanical fuel pump on the right side of the engine.
Newer Alfas might have the sensor on the top of the rear end
of the head. Green dots.
Loosen the coolant hoses from the
head. Don't forget to take away the servo hose from the back
of the manifold. Light blue dots.
Loosen the cast iron exhaust. Grey
dots. Loosen the exhaust support from the gearbox to get
easier access when loosing the cast iron exhaust. Loosen the
spark plugs but don't remove them yet.
This is to prevent dirt and grease to
fall into the cylinders. Remove the camshaft cover. There are
two bolts in the front also. Undo the two bolts under the
front of the head. There is one close to the alternator and
the other one is close to the fuel pump. Red dots. Turn the
crankshaft until the timing marks on the camshafts are exactly
in line with the marks on the cam shaft bearing caps.
The cam chain lock must be visible
since it will have to be removed later. Check that the timing
mark in the front is on the TDC point. Look down under the
alternator to find the crankshaft pulley. Loosen the bolt
holding the chain tensioner pulley.
Gently press the chain down by hand to
slacken it. Tighten the bolt holding the chain tensioner
pulley. You don't want to have the chain falling down. Place a
piece of paper under the cam shaft chain to prevent the lock
to fall down in the engine, then remove the cam chain lock.
Tie a wire to each end of the chain,
otherwise it will fall down. Remove the camshafts if you like.
Loosen the ten bolts holding the head and lift the head. Watch
the O-rings so they don't fall down in the engine. Do not move
the crankshaft with the head off. The liners may move and it
might be tricky to get the engine tight again.